Taking my 12-year-old daughter Ellie to the City of Light was a dream years in the making. Here’s everything we learned about creating the perfect Paris getaway with tweens – from flights and hotels to Disney magic and everything in between.
Planning the Perfect Trip
Paris had been calling my name for a mother-daughter adventure since Ellie turned 10. After pandemic delays and a detour to see Taylor Swift in Germany (absolutely worth it!), we finally made it happen in July 2025 when she was 12.5 – which turned out to be the perfect age.
Why July? August sees many French businesses closed for summer holidays, and we had family plans in late June. Plus, Ellie’s school schedule meant summer was our only option.
The Planning Process: I let Ellie research what she wanted to see (spoiler: Mona Lisa and Eiffel Tower topped her list), while I handled hotels and logistics. This collaborative approach got her excited and invested in our itinerary.
Getting There: Flight Strategy That Actually Works
Our Route: Portland → JFK → Charles de Gaulle
- Departure: Delta 1pm flight PDX-JFK (arrived 10pm)
- Connection: Delta/Air France 1am flight JFK-CDG (arrived 3pm)
Why This Worked: Unlike our previous overnight direct flight experience, this routing let us use the first flight for movies and activities, grab dinner at JFK, then sleep on the transatlantic leg. The key? Upgrading to Economy Plus a few days before departure and using eye masks plus melatonin on takeoff for the overnight portion.
Result: Both of us got about four hours of sleep – a miracle compared to our previous European trip!
Where We Stayed: Hotel Bonsoir Madame
The Good:
- Beautiful location on Jardin Luxembourg
- Close to a Metro stop
- Club Room with two twins (convertible to king)
- AC, cute balcony, brand new interiors
- Amazing staff (they even helped retrieve my phone from a taxi!)
- Onsite sauna
The Challenge: 20+ minutes to major tourist spots by car or public transport. If you prioritize location over neighborhood charm, consider staying closer to central attractions.
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1 (Sunday): Iconic Paris Evening
Evening Plans: Eiffel Tower
- Tickets: Book exactly 60 days in advance – they sell out fast!
- Our slot: 10:30pm (only slot available when booking opened)
- Pro tip: Set a calendar reminder for your 60-day booking window
Dinner Adventure: We started at Les Ombres for the Instagram-worthy Eiffel Tower views from their summer outdoor bar. Reality check: it’s truly just a bar with five small plates (think chickpea sliders and olives). Great for photos, not for hungry travelers!
Plan B: Eiffel Tower Brasserie – perfect for steak frites and proper bistro fare before your tower visit.
The Tower Experience: Seeing the Eiffel Tower lit up at night is magical, but be prepared for crowds and two separate elevator queues (ground to mezzanine, then mezzanine to top). The views from 1,000 meters up are worth the wait, though it’s cold and windy at the top even in summer.
Day 2 (Monday): The Louvre
Timing: 2pm timed entry (perfect after sleeping until noon – jet lag is real!)
Breakfast: Started at Judy’s, a fully gluten-free restaurant one block from our hotel. While I loved the banana bread and cinnamon rolls, Ellie preferred a classic baguette from Paris Baguette (€1.15 – best deal of the trip!).
The Louvre Reality Check: The museum is massive and magnificent, but the Mona Lisa experience was overwhelming. In the newly renovated wing, crowds were 20+ people deep, all holding up phones. While Ellie got her photo/video, we quickly moved on to explore other sections.
Hidden gems: Don’t miss the East Asian collection and Mesopotamian rooms – far less crowded and genuinely fascinating.
Practical tips:
- Arrive on time for your slot (30-minute grace period)
- Bring comfortable shoes (my “broken-in” Eccos gave me blisters!)
- Study the map and room numbering system
- The Louvre closes Tuesdays; Musée d’Orsay closes Mondays – plan accordingly
Day 3 (Tuesday): City Wandering
Morning: Explored the 6th arrondissement, checked out Paris Starbucks (they have chocolate cake!), and shopped along St. Germain.
Afternoon highlight: Macaron Making Class Booked through Viator at a bakery in the Marais district – absolutely magical! Our instructor Caroline (a new mom, former banker turned pastry chef) taught us everything from beating egg whites to piping perfect circles. We left with boxes of our own creations.
Evening: Found a charming bistro with resident dog and cat where we played Uno until the dinner rush. Sometimes the best experiences are unplanned!
Skipped: Seine river cruise – we were too tired and prioritized rest for Disney days ahead.
Disney Magic: Two Days at Disneyland Paris
Accommodation: Splurged on one night at the Disneyland Hotel (newly renovated, five-star luxury with park entrance convenience) plus one night at Aparthotels Paris for budget balance.
Park Strategy: Two days is perfect for both Disneyland and Walt Disney Studios parks. Being smaller than US parks means less walking fatigue.
Must-do experiences:
- Alice in Wonderland Maze (unique to Paris)
- Crush’s Coaster (used Premier Pass at €21/person – worth it for 60+ minute wait times)
- Flying Carpets Over Agrabah
- Ratatouille Ride and Remy Restaurant (amazing theming with bottle-cap chairs and matchbook tables)
Special dinner: Lumière’s at the Disneyland Hotel – three-course French meal with character visits from Belle & Beast, Snow White & Prince Charming, and Princess Tiana & Price Naveen. Book months in advance for the 8:30pm slot to catch fireworks from the dining room.
Weather note: Pack an umbrella! It rained lightly both days, but didn’t dampen the magic.
Hidden Gem: Les Villages Nature by Center Parcs
Think Sunriver meets Great Wolf Lodge but bigger, more elegant, and European-designed. This resort sits on a man-made lake with restaurants, shops, arcade, and the incredible Aqua Mundo waterpark.
Our apartment: VIP one-bedroom with jetted tub (essential after Disney days!) Challenges: No AC and the hardest bed ever.
The waterpark: Multiple indoor/outdoor areas connected by swim-throughs, six waterslides, climbing walls, and perfect water temperature. Could spend a whole day (or more!) here.
Activity options: Archery, chocolate making, laser tag, escape rooms, bowling, farm tours – we chose extra Disney time instead, but families could easily spend days here.
Practical Travel Tips
Language: Everyone spoke English! Just master the basics: Bonjour, Bonsoir, Please, Thank you, Excuse me – the French appreciate the effort.
Transportation: We mostly got around town in Ubers or Taxis (pretty much the same drivers).
- Total Uber cost: ~€300 (equivalent to rental car cost). Note: Disneyland Hotel doesn’t appear on the Uber maps – mention it in notes, or be sure your driver there knows to follow signs.
- Delta flights: $1,250/each. Excellent experience, would repeat this routing
- Paris Metro & RER train: Goes directly to Disneyland Paris from the City.
Dietary Considerations
I generally eat a Gluten-free and Dairy-free diet, but adhering to both was very difficult, so I chose to eat dairy and managed just finein France. Bonus: I don’t have any dairy issues since returning to the States – quite possibly worth the entire trip! Kid-friendly: Baguettes everywhere! Ellie basically survived on bread and sugar (as kids do).
What We’d Do Differently
- Stay closer to central attractions or plan for longer commute times
- Book two nights at Disneyland Hotel for maximum convenience
- Research restaurant menus before booking (especially bar vs. full restaurant)
- Pack more comfortable walking shoes and actually break them in!
- Consider visiting museums on less crowded days
Age-Appropriate Notes
At 12.5, Ellie was the perfect age for this trip. She could:
- Handle the walking and long days
- Appreciate cultural sites beyond just Disney
- Navigate jet lag reasonably well
- Engage with experiences like cooking classes
- Have opinions about what she wanted to see
Final Thoughts
This trip exceeded all expectations. Watching Ellie experience Paris – from her first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower to perfecting macaron technique – reminded me why travel with kids is so magical. Yes, it required more planning and patience than solo travel, but seeing the City of Light through her eyes made every moment worth it.
Bottom line: Paris with a tween is absolutely doable and incredibly rewarding. Plan ahead for major attractions, build in downtime, and be flexible when things don’t go as planned. The memories you’ll create are priceless.
Ready to plan your own Paris adventure? Save this guide and start dreaming – and feel free to reach out if you have any questions during the planning process at hello@vidacoworking.com The City of Light is waiting — happy travels from all of us at VIDA!